The door bell push is being temperamental.

After a few days it stops working.

I prise the bell push off the bracket and prise the battery out and then
put it back in and then it works again. For a while.

I have checked the CR2032 with a multi-meter and the voltage looks good.

This suggests a marginal contact.

Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
Everything looks suitably shiny.
The bell push is in a sheltered porch so not subject to rain.

Cheers

Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
> The door bell push is being temperamental.
>
> After a few days it stops working.
>
> I prise the bell push off the bracket and prise the battery out and then
> put it back in and then it works again. For a while.
>
> I have checked the CR2032 with a multi-meter and the voltage looks good.
>
> This suggests a marginal contact.
>
> Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
> Everything looks suitably shiny.
> The bell push is in a sheltered porch so not subject to rain.

Clean all finger grease from the CR2032 before inserting it into the
holder.

Rub a lead pencil over the holder’s contacts.

--
Spike

Spike <aero.spike@mail.com> wrote:
> David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
>> The door bell push is being temperamental.
>>
>> After a few days it stops working.
>>
>> I prise the bell push off the bracket and prise the battery out and then
>> put it back in and then it works again. For a while.
>>
>> I have checked the CR2032 with a multi-meter and the voltage looks good.
>>
>> This suggests a marginal contact.
>>
>> Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
>> Everything looks suitably shiny.
>> The bell push is in a sheltered porch so not subject to rain.
>
> Clean all finger grease from the CR2032 before inserting it into the
> holder.
>
> Rub a lead pencil over the holder’s contacts.
>

Do the above, then drill a hole through the door frame and fit a cheapo
wired battery doorbell. Save you years of faffing. ;-)

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 4/26/2024 7:33 AM, David wrote:
> The door bell push is being temperamental.
>
> After a few days it stops working.
>
> I prise the bell push off the bracket and prise the battery out and then
> put it back in and then it works again. For a while.
>
> I have checked the CR2032 with a multi-meter and the voltage looks good.
>
> This suggests a marginal contact.
>
> Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
> Everything looks suitably shiny.
> The bell push is in a sheltered porch so not subject to rain.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Dave R
>

These items include the concept of "pairing", implying Bluetooth.

https://1byone.com/pub/media/product_tool/download_files/O00QH-0501/wireless_-doorbell-O00QH-0501.pdf

Maybe the scheme is just too complicated for its own good ?

I would want to understand the operating principle of the
item in question, and how many "moving parts" it has, which
can break.

It could be, that the Bell Push is sending a signal at
2.4Ghz, but the receiver is refusing to acknowledge it.
It might not be a "dirty contact".

Paul

On 02/05/2024 05:07, Paul wrote:

> It could be, that the Bell Push is sending a signal at
> 2.4Ghz, but the receiver is refusing to acknowledge it.
> It might not be a "dirty contact".

Almost certainly a poor contact. We have a similar setup with a
Honeywell (Friedland), but in this case we have two receivers - one
mains powered and one battery powered. They either both work or both
fail. We've had ours about 7 years, and the bell push is consistently
unreliable! It's the one here:
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Home-DC313NHGBS-doorbell-Additional/dp/B01L4P28CC>.
Note the one and two-star reviews. It wouldn't be so bad if there was
some indication on the bell push that it had actually sent a signal, but
there's no visual feedback such as a led illuminating at all.

Still, it's a lot better than the el-cheapo one we originally had, in
which the receiver ate AA batteries, and was a lot less sensitive than
the Honeywell receivers.

--
Jeff

On Thu, 02 May 2024 08:26:33 +0100, Jeff Layman wrote:

> <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Home-DC313NHGBS-doorbell-Additional/
dp/B01L4P28CC>.
> Note the one and two-star reviews. It wouldn't be so bad if there was
> some indication on the bell push that it had actually sent a signal, but
> there's no visual feedback such as a led illuminating at all.
>
> Still, it's a lot better than the el-cheapo one we originally had, in
> which the receiver ate AA batteries, and was a lot less sensitive than
> the Honeywell receivers.

I got so fed up with our unreliable wireless doorbells that I bit the
bullet and did a hard wired one. (the house is large and has thick-ish
walls).

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 5/2/2024 3:26 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
> On 02/05/2024 05:07, Paul wrote:
>
>> It could be, that the Bell Push is sending a signal at
>> 2.4Ghz, but the receiver is refusing to acknowledge it.
>> It might not be a "dirty contact".
>
> Almost certainly a poor contact. We have a similar setup with a Honeywell (Friedland), but in this case we have two receivers - one mains powered and one battery powered. They either both work or both fail. We've had ours about 7 years, and the bell push is consistently unreliable! It's the one here:
> <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Home-DC313NHGBS-doorbell-Additional/dp/B01L4P28CC>. Note the one and two-star reviews. It wouldn't be so bad if there was some indication on the bell push that it had actually sent a signal, but there's no visual feedback such as a led illuminating at all.
>
> Still, it's a lot better than the el-cheapo one we originally had, in which the receiver ate AA batteries, and was a lot less sensitive than the Honeywell receivers.
>

Bell pushes are a fascinating topic. Almost as much fun as Internet Radio :-)

https://www.letscontrolit.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4813

The 1byone lists 433.92MHz as the working frequency. It is
printed on the back of the unit.

[Picture]

https://i.postimg.cc/Hk0VcV9b/1byone-back-of-unit.gif

And 433.92MHz should be in range of an RTLSDR (software defined radio).
If that's the frequency being used, it could be easier to "watch"
than any 2.4GHz device (which would require a HackRFOne or similar/more expensive).

There is talk here, that importing these may be made illegal
(as car thieves are using them, and isn't that the best reason???).
This is one way to work at 2.4GHz.

https://greatscottgadgets.com/hackrf/one/

Whereas below 1.7GHz or so, the RTLSDR would be
a possible solution for listening to RF output.
You would Google "RTLSDR Doorbell push" and see if
anyone has built a demodulator. (Even listening for
carrier, would be better than nothing.)

There's no guarantee that for a given modulation scheme,
an SDR can work with it. Some modulation schemes,
need a better device than a hackrf one. The feature the
hackrf one has, is the ability to work from 0-6GHz or so
for the RF carrier. Which is better for some of the
computer related stuff. Things like GNURadio make an SDR run.
Some RF things in our daily lives, the bandwidth is wide enough,
you need an SDR that costs about 10^4.

The RTLSDR, they can be cheap enough at times, to be
worthwhile as a toy. And especially if the thing you're working
on, is at a lower frequency.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nooelec-NESDR-SMArt-SDR-R820T2-Based/dp/B01HA642SW

There are also kits that come with a cheesy antenna. The antenna must
be chosen with some idea what frequency range you're covering. A coat
hanger stuffed into the central hole, should be enough for 433MHz.
Otherwise, you'll be puttering with a Balun and an old UHF TV antenna
or the like.

Paul

Paul wrote:

> 433.92MHz should be in range of an RTLSDR (software defined radio).
> If that's the frequency being used, it could be easier to "watch"
> than any 2.4GHz device (which would require a HackRFOne or similar/more expensive).
>
> There is talk here, that importing these may be made illegal
> (as car thieves are using them, and isn't that the best reason???).

I'd heard tales of FlipperZero devices being impounded at customs, have
they seen sense yet?

On 26/04/2024 18:42, Tim+ wrote:
> Spike <aero.spike@mail.com> wrote:
>> David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
>>> The door bell push is being temperamental.
>>>
>>> After a few days it stops working.
>>>
>>> I prise the bell push off the bracket and prise the battery out and then
>>> put it back in and then it works again. For a while.
>>>
>>> I have checked the CR2032 with a multi-meter and the voltage looks good.
>>>
>>> This suggests a marginal contact.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
>>> Everything looks suitably shiny.
>>> The bell push is in a sheltered porch so not subject to rain.
>>
>> Clean all finger grease from the CR2032 before inserting it into the
>> holder.
>>
>> Rub a lead pencil over the holder’s contacts.
>>
>
> Do the above, then drill a hole through the door frame and fit a cheapo
> wired battery doorbell. Save you years of faffing. ;-)
>
> Tim
>
+1

On Thu, 02 May 2024 08:26:33 +0100, Jeff Layman wrote:

> On 02/05/2024 05:07, Paul wrote:
>
>> It could be, that the Bell Push is sending a signal at 2.4Ghz, but the
>> receiver is refusing to acknowledge it.
>> It might not be a "dirty contact".
>
> Almost certainly a poor contact. We have a similar setup with a
> Honeywell (Friedland), but in this case we have two receivers - one
> mains powered and one battery powered. They either both work or both
> fail. We've had ours about 7 years, and the bell push is consistently
> unreliable! It's the one here:
> <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Home-DC313NHGBS-doorbell-Additional/
dp/B01L4P28CC>.
> Note the one and two-star reviews. It wouldn't be so bad if there was
> some indication on the bell push that it had actually sent a signal, but
> there's no visual feedback such as a led illuminating at all.
>
> Still, it's a lot better than the el-cheapo one we originally had, in
> which the receiver ate AA batteries, and was a lot less sensitive than
> the Honeywell receivers.

The bell push lights up briefly when it acknowledges a button push.
So I know that it is the bell push which isn't working.

Probably some sort of deep clean is called for.

I do have some contact cleaner which might help (or not).

Cheers

Dave R

--
W11 Home on Dell XPS 13 i7

FWIW I have had good success with the Qinetic range of doorbells and
other wireless controllers (sold via TLC). They are powered by the
mechanical force used to press the button!
As a result the unit is batteryless and can be sealed. The 'bell' is a
small unit that plugs in the mains and is paired with the pushbutton.

They also do mains switching devices which I have used for outdoor
lights. Recommended.